The most important part of skiing is definitely the ski boots. They are the "link" between skier and equipment and this is where most power is lost. Paradoxically, the most common equipment error among skiers is the wrong choice of boots. The problem is often that many people buy boots that are too big. Arguments that are better suited to choosing rubber boots, such as: "there must be room for extra socks if it's cold", "they must not pinch" and "you must also be able to grow in them", have ruined many a skiing experience.
Ski boots need to fit snugly so that all power can be transferred. They also need to fit snugly while skiing. When we carve and ski from edge to edge, the foot gets compressed and will sail around if the boot is too big or weak. If you're a good skier and need a ski boot that suits your skiing, it needs to be carved. The boot must also be stiff enough. This helps to ensure tightness and power transmission. However, if it's too stiff, it can hurt unnecessarily.
Ski boots are the most important part of good skiing. There's no guarantee that good ski boots will make you a world champion - but it's 100% certain that bad or wrong ski boots can make you one of the worst.
There are so many different things that determine whether a ski boot fits that you need to see a specialist to make sure you get the right ones.
Anyway, here's a review of all the nerdy stuff about ski boots.
Construction
Ski boots are made up of a shell and an inner boot. The shell can be constructed in two different ways. The most common is a so-called "two-piece" shell. As the name suggests, it is split in two, a base around the foot and a shaft around the leg. The two pieces are joined at a flex point on either side of the ankle, allowing the shank to flex forward, regulated by a joint at the back of the boot. The joint is made so that it can flex according to the runner's level. Two-piece boots are usually held together by 4 buckles and a power strap that tightens the boot around the foot and lower leg. On some boots, the number of buckles has been reduced slightly, which has both advantages and disadvantages.
The second type is a three-piece shell. This is also a base part for the foot, but there is also a cuff, which is a shaft that is open at the front. "The cuff is hinged in the same way as a two-piece, but often slightly lower. The third part is a flex tongue that lies over the instep and shin. With the boot's, typically 3 buckles (and a power strap), the flex tongue is tightened down over the instep and shin. The advantage of a threepiece is that it protects the ankle and instep because the joining point is not so pronounced. It's especially suitable for freestyle, where you sometimes take some big hits on landings.
This type of boot is also great for skiers with a little fullness in the calf muscles.
Fit of the boot
The fit of the boot varies according to the target group. Roughly speaking, the fit is how the boot as a whole fits the foot and lower leg. This means that the shape of the shell, shaft height and width all play a role, as does the density, hardness and shape of the inner boot. Two different models can have exactly the same stiffness, shell shape and width and yet feel completely different in fit.
Sizing
Obviously, a boot needs to fit. But you'd be surprised how many people wear boots that are too big. This is largely because the shaft leans forward. When you first put your foot into a ski boot, the shape will push your foot slightly forward, resulting in your toes hitting the nose of the boot! This makes many people think that the boot is too small. But it's not. Once you've tightened the boot and are in the right basic position, the heel is pulled back and your toes have more room. Unfortunately, many people (some stubbornly) choose to follow their first assumption and convince the landlord or store clerk that they need one, two or three sizes bigger. (At One Open Sky, we have been trained on various bootfitting courses and know what you can and cannot do. Ultimately, of course, it's your money and your feet, so you decide, we can only advise you)
A boot that's too big doesn't fit tight enough. That's why you see that everyone who has bought boots that are too big has to buckle them incredibly tight, with the result that the contact is around the buckles and stops the blood flow to the feet. If the boot is the right size, the shell fits the foot and the boot should be closed... NOT buckled.
Width
The width of the boot is what causes the most challenges. The problem is that when we stand straight up and down on our feet, they are loaded with our full weight and become wide. However, when we make a turn, on edge, we unload and deform the foot, making it much narrower. It's in the turn that we need the boot to fit, not in the lift queue. This is something that good skiers in particular notice, which is why you see that boots for expert skiers are narrower than boots for beginners. The problem of the lift queue is solved by tightening the boots when you're passive and by putting a sole in the boot that can relieve and deform the foot when standing in the lift queue. The width of the boot also affects the stiffness of the boot. A narrower boot is stiffer than a wide boot.
Another challenge is that many skiers are active in other sports. This means wear and tear on the ligaments of the feet and many have fallen arches and/or pronation. This means that meeting a narrow ski boot can be an unusually painful affair. Again, a sole can be the miracle solution. In the worst case, the shell may need to be blogged.
Since ski boots are mostly made with widths between 98 and 104 mm, you can really talk about small details. That's why it's important to rely on experts in the field. Otherwise, your dream ski trip can quickly turn into a nightmare.
At One Open Sky, we have boots in all widths and the exact millimeter measurement can always be found under the specifications on our website. If you have a narrow foot and are looking for a tight fit, look for our boots marked LV (Low volume), for example Lange's XT3 Free 110 LV model. If you have a wider foot, look for models marked HV (High volume). Salomon S/PRO HV 120 is also available here, or for the ladies Fischer's My Cruzar.
Shaft height
The height of the shaft is also important for skiing. A tall boot means you can maximize the transfer of power from the skier to the ski. Conversely, running around all day in high boots is a great strain on the legs, locking you in more tightly. Therefore, it's a bit the same with the shaft height as with the width. Boots for more skilled skiers are taller. One detail here is that beginners and intermediate skiers in particular tend to have boots that are too big. As the size increases, so does the shaft height. A high shaft for someone who runs with a little back weight shuts off blood flow and causes cramps in the feet (this also applies if you have a wide calf!). Think about what it's like if you're running in a traction lift... If you don't think about leaning forward, you can easily get cramps.
Heel hold
One of the things that is essential for good skiing is a good heel hold. When you ski well, you are able to push the boot into the turn. To ensure optimal heel hold, the boot must be the right size, width and stiffness for the skier's skiing. If you push a soft boot too hard, it will deform and expand around the ankles, causing the heel to slip.
Flex/stiffness
The stiffness of the boot helps to optimize power transfer. A stiffer boot transfers more power directly into the skis. Of course, this also means that if it's too stiff, you'll be penalized for your mistakes. At the same time, a stiff/hard boot is tough to ski with. It requires good technique and strength.
In store and online we have a wide selection of boots with stiffness ranging from 75-140 in flex, with women's boots ranging from 75-115 and men's boots from 90-140 in flex.
Forward Lean
Is English for forward lean. In the old days it was something you could put on your boots, but today it's "fixed". Skilled and strong skiers want to stand deep and get far forward on their skis. That's why the angle of boots for good skiers is smaller than for less skilled skiers. If you get a pair of boots with too much forward lean, you will get uncomfortable pressure on the calf, which can cut off blood flow to the feet. This happens because less experienced skiers stand more upright and find it harder to stay forward.
Mondo points
The most common size indication on ski boots. It's also the simplest. Mondo points are centimeter measurements! This means that you should wear boots the same size (or slightly larger) as your foot measures.
Powerstrap
The fifth buckle is also called the powerstrap. It is the strap, usually with a Velcro closure, that sits at the top of most boots. The powerstrap provides extra control by lengthening the shaft, but without the hard shell on the outside.
Inner boots
The inner boot is just as important a part of the ski boot as the plastic shell is. You want a moldable inner boot with a snug fit. A more expensive boot will always have a better liner than cheaper models. Depending on your level and needs, choose the right hardness and density. Often the hardness is related to the stiffness of the boot, so it all fits together. Other times, it may be necessary to adapt the inner boot to the foot. This is especially true if you have some problems getting your foot to fit in a boot.
Moldable inner boot
The inner boots are made of different types of foam material. Many of these foams are moldable and are affected by pressure and heat. Generally speaking, the heat and pressure of the foot alone will eventually result in an inner boot that fits. However, you can "cheat a little" by warming up the inner boot and then wearing it. The heat softens the foam, which then molds to the foot. The result is the same, but you save some time.
Intuition liner
If you choose an Intuition liner, which is found in boots from Full Tilt and some other brands, the liner needs to be heated. The foam is harder and actually makes the boot a little stiffer than the shell indicates. The Intuition liner heats up to 120 degrees before you jump in! By default, the liner is too small, but by wearing it while it cools down, you get a perfectly shaped and very tight inner boot.
The shell
The properties of the boot are defined by the structure and rigidity of the shell. It is the shell that transfers the power from the skier to the skis. The ultimate power transfer set-up is a rock-hard shell that fits completely tight to the foot and leg without any padding. As this would be quite painful, they have chosen to add an inner boot. In addition, various measures have been taken to make the shell more forgiving. For example, different types of plastic can be used to make it more or less rigid. The hardest plastic is also the most difficult to manufacture and therefore the most expensive. You also make different transitions between the shaft and the bottom of the boot. On boots for beginners, the transition is very pliable to absorb inaccuracies and inappropriate movements, while boots for advanced and racing runners are riveted into the shell and have thin, hard inner boots to optimize power.
Malleable shell
It's the hard shell that tends to cause problems. If you have pronation, bunions or other ailments, you may need to change the shape of the shell to avoid a painful experience. In the past, the only way to do this was to block the shell, but now manufacturers have all made shells that can be shaped with either heat or vacuum (Fischer). This means that by shaping the shell you can take care of the last, minor defects, while for larger bunions you still have to block.
Vacuum
A few years ago, Fischer came up with the revolutionary Vacuum system. Fischer Vacuum boots are unique as many other brands can be heated and expanded in the plastic shell. Fischer Vacuum boots can be heated and expanded in the shell, while we press the shell into the foot using vacuum fit. This means that you get the desired tight fit around the foot, but with room in the exposed areas.
Here at One Open Sky, we are trained in vacuum boots and have the latest foot scanning machines that can choose the perfect boot for your feet. If you are looking for a tight fit and a stiff boot that is fully moldable in our Vaccum machine, then Fischer's The Curv series is a good choice, available from flex 110 to 140.
Soles
Many of the problems skiers have with boots are due to active use of their feet. When the feet are used over a long life or when running or other sports put a lot of strain on them, it is inevitable that they will change. This is because the ligaments in the feet give way and become "lax". This means that different types of bone slippage can occur. The most common is a sunken forefoot and pronation (flatfoot). This changes the profile of the foot (and in some cases the ankle) so that it doesn't fit in a ski boot.
By supporting the foot with a sole, you can largely restore the original shape and position of the foot. Roughly speaking, it's the sole that determines whether you can fit a boot.
It's also a good idea to have good soles, even if you have ordinary feet. The sole supports the foot and avoids pain under the arch, which is a tendency with flat soles.
Molded soles
At One Open Sky, we make molded soles for your ski boots. This is something we can do for all boots, no matter how old they are. You take an impression of the foot and mold the sole after it. While you might settle for a standard sole, a molded sole gives you that little extra and the price difference is minimal.
You can book an appointment for a scan, advice and customization of your next ski boot HERE, and before your appointment you can check out our wide selection of ski boots HERE!
