Understand surfboard terms and find the perfect board
When it comes to buying a wave surfboard, there are a lot of numbers and names that can be hard to understand. Unfortunately, you end up looking too much for colors and shapes that you think are "cool" instead of finding the board that suits you, your surfing style, your weight, etc.
Shaping a surfboard is a noble art and something that has been refined over many years. Therefore, there are many elements that can vary and can be confusing when looking for a new surfboard if you don't know what you're looking for. This post is designed to give you an overview of what the most common words and terms mean to you, so you can get off to a good start and get the optimal set-up to get started. If you want more info, don't hesitate to call us at One Open Sky (97122965/35820777) and let us help you find the perfect surfboard for you.
Liters
Liter indicates the volume of the board, which is a composite of length, width and thickness. Imagine you have a full bathtub, you stuff the board into the tub, the liters that overflow are the number of liters that the board fills. And since the board is made of foam, it also tells us how much buoyancy there is in the board. When catching waves, it's important to get the board level on the wave. If you have too little buoyancy, it's much harder to paddle the board up to speed and get it to plane on the wave. Real volume results in a lot more waves caught = a lot more fun and development, so rule number 1: A board that can catch books is the best board. Volume is the factor that makes the difference between catching 20 waves or 0 waves. You can use a rule of thumb that says your own weight * 0.7, so you have a starting point for the number of liters you need. From here you can adjust up or down depending on experience, conditions etc.
Length
Usually calculated in feet and inches. E.g. 6" 10 = 6 feet and 10 inches (approx. 208 cm). The length of the board affects how directionally stable the board is. A short board is easier to make small maneuvers with, where a longer board is more directionally stable.
Width
Width is usually also measured in inches. E.g. 22' = about 56 cm. Width affects your balance on the board. Roughly speaking, a wide board is a more stable board, which benefits you when catching waves, but also when you're on the wave. However, it's a delicate balance as a very wide board makes it a little harder to move around in the wave.
Thickness
Thickness is also measured in inches. It gives an indication of how much volume you have on the board. Thickness is measured at the widest point, so it can vary how thick the board is around the edges.
Rocker
Rocker is the curve/web shape of the board from tail to tip. The flatter, the faster the board glides in the water. The more rocker the more maneuverable the board will be, but the maneuverability has the "downside" of making the board a bit slower to paddle off, so it's not advisable to have too much rocker until you have the technique to paddle up waves.
The tail (tail/hook)
There are so many types of tail shapes. They vary greatly in what they are suitable for. Basically, a pointed tail (combined with a relatively flat rocker) gives a longer waterline and a faster board. The different tail shapes influence how the edge/rail hits the wave, so your own preferences and the waves you surf have a big impact on which shapes you will like.
Rails
Rails are the edges at the back of the board. They're what you cut the wave with, a bit like using the edges of a snowboard or skis to cut the snow. The more you practice, the more you need these. When starting out, you'll benefit more from the extra help in volume and the slightly rounder rails (soft rails).
Buttom shape
In foam production, you can create different shapes under the table. This creates different ways of channeling the water under the board, which affects how the board feels to maneuver in the waves. Overall, a flat buttom shape = speed. You want that a lot at the front of the board. Concave patterns give a bit of buoyancy in the board and make the board very agile. You typically want this on shorter boards and at the back of the board. That's why you often see a flat shape at the front of the board, which then changes to a convex shape at the back to get the best of the two shapes.
A more convex shape makes the board sit more in the wave and makes it stable, which you often want on a longboard. Different bottom shapes can be combined to create the perfect set-up.
Names of surfboards
There are different names for different types of boards. Each type indicates a specific usage area or style that the board is built for. These are general terms and hybrids between the different board types are created all the time.
Longboard
Longboards have a history of their own and are a different discipline to the shortboard, which is the opposite. A longboard is very stable and due to its large volume, you can move around the board and perform maneuvers and tricks. For example, cross step (cross walk on the board) and hang five (one foot on the nose of the board) and hang 10 (both feet on the nose of the board). The longboard is great for waves that are not so steep and due to its volume it also "carries" over sections of the wave that are not optimal, resulting in a significantly longer ride. The length of the board can make it feel a bit big when you're in the waves, e.g. when going out through the surf, or carrying the board to and from the beach.
Malibu and funboard
The Malibu board is a classic board that's big enough to have plenty of time on the wave, but still in a size that's easy to carry and maneuver in the waves. One of the boards that most people benefit from surfing in Denmark. Malibu and funboard are somewhat in the same category, but a funboard typically has a narrower profile. The Malibu board typically has a more rounded profile.
Shortboard
The small, fast board with quick response and made to turn easily and create a fast edge to edge. The small construction means you don't have as much buoyancy, so it requires good technique and relatively powerful and steep waves.
Fish
A classic shape originally made for those days when the waves are not so good. But due to the short thick construction with the flat rocker, it lifts faster and will catch more waves, while the board is short enough to also be able to maneuver on the wave. Originally, a Fish is set up with 2 fins.
Hybrid
A hybrid is a further development and a fusion between a Shortboard and a Fish. This means you get the best of both worlds. You get a board that has more volume than a traditional shortboard, a slightly flatter rocker that gives you extra speed. At the same time, a board that is made with relatively marked rails (edges), so you can make rail turns and generally cut more into the wave. The hybrid is really well suited to Danish conditions, as we don't have quite the same power in the waves as you often experience in places like Portugal, France, Bali etc. where you just get that extra speed with the hybrid board. This board type is also great for the slightly bigger surfer, or for those who don't surf much but want to catch a lot of waves when you're out and about.
Foilboard
The new kid on the block, also known as prone boards. Boards and foils have come a long way in recent years. You now have foils that can lift at low speed, which is why you can now paddle a relatively small board with surf technique and then foil on the wave.
What do I need?
There are 3 main factors that determine which board is good for you. These are your weight, your technique and the waves you want to use it for.
As a beginner, your weight is most relevant, as the other two factors are not yet in play - naturally, you need to start learning and figuring these out. Therefore, it's all about finding the board that gives you the longest time on the wave in the easiest way. You get that on a Malibu-sized board with soft rails. It's a stable board, it's easy to handle in the waves and you'll catch a lot of waves and have maximum fun.
Remember that in Denmark we have waves, but they are often not with the same force that you can experience on surf breaks where the swell has traveled further. The waves (swells) in Denmark are most often created north of England. When you've been catching waves for a while, you start to factor in other aspects. Naturally, you want to get the maximum out of each wave. That is, you want the board to "fit" both in terms of the waves you typically surf and your own preferences. The rocker on the board itself ensures that the board matches the waves you surf. For example, a longboard with a very flat rocker will fit relatively poorly on a very steep wave. Here you want more rocker and possibly go down in size so that the board matches the wave. Of course, you can't have one board to suit all conditions, which is why it can be beneficial to have a couple or more boards available. If you have one board available, remember to have enough liters in the board for the not so good days.
As you get better and better at handling the board and the waves, you'll typically go for a board where the edge (rails) is more pronounced. In a starter board, you need more volume, which makes them more rounded.
Do you have any questions?
Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions. Our staff are ready to help and guide you in finding the right wave board for you and your surfing style.
You can visit one of our stores in Copenhagen or Herning, but you can also find us at Mail: Info@oneopensky.dk or Tel: 97 12 29 65
