At One Open Sky, we have the experts who know everything about skiing - including touring. The discipline is developing rapidly and this is perhaps where the greatest skiing adventures lie in wait. We have a wide range of skis and equipment for touring, both lightweight specialized equipment for big top tour expeditions, but also the perfect setups for small hikes, where you walk 45 minutes from the lift top station to get the ultimate off-piste run.
A large selection of suitable skis from Dynastar, Faction, Fischer, Line, Salomon, Atomic, Black Crows and K2. The skis span a wide range from extremely lightweight skis that make it a breeze to get to the top, to wider and stiffer skis for more freeride-inspired touring.
Choosing skis
When choosing skis for touring, you should basically follow the guide for off-piste skiing. However, you may need to consider different compromises depending on how serious you are. If you want skis that are best suited for going up, you can reduce the width and length of the skis slightly. This not only reduces weight, but also increases control and comfort on the way up. Shorter skis are easier to get "around" when turning on steep climbs and a narrower ski provides better edge grip than wide skis. At the same time, a narrower ski will have your weight over the edge, whereas a wide ski has your weight outside the point where the ski has the strongest contact with the snow. If you have to go a long way at an angle, wide skis can put so much strain on your ankle, knee and hip joints that you have to turn around.
Choice of bindings:
We have chosen to stock tech bindings and touring bindings from Look Salomon, Atomic and Marker. With these 4 brands, you cover all possible situations, from the ultralight to the most freeride-inspired on powerful freeride skis. The most important thing is that the bindings work for your needs and that they're robust so you don't suddenly experience a defect when you're on top of your dream run.
Again, weight is the deciding factor. Both the binding and the weight you can push it with! If you're 100% up for the climb, choose a lightweight binding. They are available in versions that are lighter than 500 grams! These light bindings have two immediate weaknesses. They can't be tightened very hard and are therefore not the perfect choice for aggressive skiing and their safety features are not as good as on heavier bindings. The heavier bindings, on the other hand, are clunkier and naturally harder to lug around. Luckily, there are a lot of intermediates that are suitable for the average skier.
An important detail to consider is the design of the binding. There are roughly two types: tech bindings and step-in bindings (full-frame). In tech bindings, you are only attached to the toe binding and thus have a completely free heel, while in step-in bindings you are attached to the entire binding, which is hinged to the ski in front. This in turn has an impact on the ride up. With step-in bindings, you have to lift the entire rear binding with every step and this can be felt when you go far. Again, the springs in step-in bindings are often better, which provides better safety and reliability on the way down.
See all bindings here: Ski bindings
Choosing boots
You can easily use your regular alpine boots for touring, but as with skis and bindings, weight and comfort play an important role. Again, you are faced with a compromise as the perfect touring boot is light, comfortable, has rounded and non-slip soles, has pin inserts for tech bindings, has a walking function and is relatively low in the shaft, all to make it perfect for touring, while the perfect boot for aggressive skiing is stiff (heavy plastic), tight-fitting, has a flat and hard sole and has a locked strong forward angle! All to ensure optimal power transmission.
The boot industry has also seen the need to find a middle ground and "new" freeride boots with WTR soles (rounded and non-slip), gaiters and in newly developed lightweight plastic with more rigidity. Several of these also have pin inserts needed for tech bindings. These boots can also be used in most "normal" alpine bindings, although some can only be used in the new WTR bindings. Again, you have to decide whether you're more into the uphill or the downhill?
The most important thing when choosing boots is still that they fit.
Read our boot selection guide for more information.
Choosing poles
Leki makes lightweight poles, both with and without telescopes, which are perfect for the serious and quality-conscious tourer. See the poles here.
Telescopic poles are indispensable for serious touring. It's important to be able to change arm position on longer tours, but it's also more comfortable with longer poles when going straight and uphill. Finally, it can be surprisingly comfortable to be able to have different pole lengths when going uphill. If your normal pole length is 120 cm, a length of 130 cm will be a good starting point for the uphill, while on the good "powder days" it can be a great advantage to reduce it to 115 cm! Check that the pole's "span" fits your lengths before adding to the cart.
Clothing
As with everything else, the weight of the clothes also plays a role in making the climb easier. This means going for lightweight materials like down, primaloft and GoreTex. It's perhaps in randonee that you need to build up in layers the most. Not only is there a high probability of weather changes during a long ascent, but it's also different when you're working hard up a mountain for several hours. Often you're just wearing your ski undershirt. To make sure you make the right choice, read our guide to the layering principle.
Baselayer
You can get really hot when you're on your way up. That's why it's extra important that the base layer can wick moisture away from the body so you're not soaking wet when you reach the top and need to sit still and rest before the descent. Wool and synthetic is the only thing that works. Wool also has the advantage of not smelling of sweat.
Safety and security
When you're touring, you're basically only traveling in terrain where there is a potential avalanche hazard. This means you need to have your equipment 100% in order and know how it works. Read our guide to avalanche safety equipment.
Backpacks
Again: Weight! Choose a lightweight bag with enough space for extra clothes, safety equipment and food. Around 25-30 liters is suitable for longer day trips. If you're touring to ride some exposed mountainsides, consider an avalanche bag with an airbag. However, it's 2 kg heavier than a normal bag, so you'll need to be strong to carry it for a full day. 
Water bottles/hydration
When you're on the road, you need a lot of fluids. Unfortunately, you have to carry it yourself. There are two options for storage: water bottle or a hydration system. A hydration system is a bag in your backpack with liquid and a hose that is accessible from the outside. That way you don't have to take your bag on and off to drink while walking. Unfortunately, the hose can freeze if it's very cold, so it's best for spring hikes. If it's extremely cold, insulated bottles may be necessary!
Skins
Of course, it's absolutely essential to have skins under your skis when going uphill. Dynastar and Fischer, among others, have skins that are adapted to selected ski models! If you buy loose skins from Faction or G3, they can be cut to fit the ski you want to ski on.
Skin customization: It's easy to customize the skins to fit your skis with the special knife provided. If you buy skis and skins at the same time, we're happy to customize them: just note it in the information.
